As sad as I was to leave Ethiopia, I was also pretty excited about the next stage of my travels, which was to include not only lots of amazing animals, but also a guest appearance from my Dad!
I flew from Addis Ababa (Ethiopia) to Nairobi (Kenya) and then jumped on a bus to Arusha (Tanzania) - just over four hours drive away. I spent a couple of days and nights just pottering around Arusha, resting after the exertions of Ethiopia and waiting for Dad to arrive.
As Dad put in a guest appearance on my Africa travels, I thought it was only fair for him to also put in a guest appearance in my blog! So below is his post.
Dad's blog
As Dad put in a guest appearance on my Africa travels, I thought it was only fair for him to also put in a guest appearance in my blog! So below is his post.
Dad's blog
When Grace first suggested that I might like to join her during her African year, I needed very little encouragement. Angela (Grace's Mum) and I had visited South Africa previously and she was happy for me to go back to the continent as the family representative.
The plan was that I would meet Grace in Arusha, Tanzania and we would visit the Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater and Zanzibar. She had chosen a superb tour company “Eyes on Africa” to look after us for 10 days and had also helpfully arranged my flights - a total of six in 12 days!
Grace expressed some concern as to how I would manage to get myself through numerous airports on my own, knowing that I can find navigating self-service restaurants difficult enough! The idea of booking an airline escort for me was even mentioned, but finally I was allowed to do it alone, under strict orders from the female members of the family that i must ask someone if i was unsure of anything or needed help.
They needn’t have worried as the the flights were pretty uneventful, despite having to declare at Heathrow that my bag contained items of female underwear! (These were mine, just in case anyone was wondering! - grace)
My outward journey required three flights and I was told my luggage would find its own way to my final destination, which I presumed to be Arusha. However on arrival at Dar Es Salaam (my second destination) I was asked where my luggage was. There followed a major search of the airport with my case eventually found in a large and otherwise empty hangar. Apparently Dar was classed as my final destination, as my flight to Arusha was only a domestic flight.
On my last flight from Dar to Arusha I saw the wonderful sight of snow-capped Mount Kilimanjaro from above.
African flights tend to be late so I arrived very late at Arusha to be greeted by Grace and Oscar, who was to be our guide, driver and companion for the next seven days. He was a charming man with huge knowledge of the wildlife, especially the birds. He also had infinite patience to allow us to take photos at will.
Getting to know Oscar
We spent the first night in Arusha, a town crowded with people; street vendors cluttering the pavements and handcarts and overcrowded buses occupying most of the rough roads.
On reaching the outskirts of the town the following morning, we soon saw the Maasai tribes herding their livestock of cattle and goats, assisted by children of possibly only 8 or 9 years. Wherever we looked there were Maasai in their traditional dress, with red blankets and sticks. These images will live with me always.
At the rim of the Ngorongoro Crater
It is impossible to convey the anticipation I felt as each daybreak we drove from our lodges or tented camps into the bush and were soon rewarded with sightings of a wide range of animals and birds.
There is insufficient space to mention it all, but below are some of the things that were most memorable for me.
Thousands of migrating wildebeest (also known as 'gnu') and zebra
A leopard up a tree with the remains of its 'lunch' drooping beside it
Seeing 28 lions in one day alone
The great, lumbering elephants coming ever closer to our vehicle
The sunrises and sunsets
The cheeky faces of monkeys and baboons
Other highlights were hearing the morning calls of doves and the rowdy chatter of nocturnal bush-babies, seeing the pink glow of flamingos on the lakes, watching the comical warthogs and being treated to a Maasai warrior dance around our campfire.
Lilac-breasted Roller
In contrast there were also plenty of Ostrich, Kori Bustard and the extraordinary Secretary Bird.
Secretary Bird on her nest
Grace offered - perhaps unwisely - to keep a bird list for me, and Oscar managed to identify a staggering 102 different species.
Back at Arusha, we said goodbye to Oscar, our eyes in Africa and a great companion. He had even been polite enough to listen to my rendition of “I’m a Gnu” from start to finish - luckily he only had to enjoy/endure this once!
We then moved on to Zanzibar, courtesy of a 12-seater plane.
First came Stonetown, the capital, with its narrow cobbled streets containing hordes of pedestrians, cycles and motor bikes. The skyline was dominated by mosques and temples and throughout the day the sound of the call to prayer rang out over the rooftops.
We finished our time in Zanzibar in a most luxurious and idyllic retreat on the coast, surrounded by palm trees and golden sands. I spent one whole day on the beach on a sun lounger with the tranquil blue sea at my feet and crabs rushing up the beach to avoid the tide. My relaxation was only interrupted by a generous supply of cocktails.
Bliss!
Meanwhile, Grace caught up with her washing...
And so after 10 days I left Grace and Africa behind. The journeys we had undertaken were for me an unforgettable experience and I shall miss the vast plains teeming with wildlife. Also there was the genuine warmth and friendliness of the people we met, many of whom were Maasai.
On my flight home from Nairobi I witnessed the confusing but memorable phenomenon of two dawns, one as we came close to the Middle East and the other nearer home.
None of our adventures and experiences would have been possible without the foresight of Grace to invite me to share in her new world of Africa. Thank you for looking after me, especially through your command of Swahili, and allowing me this opportunity to add my impressions of our great time together.
Asante Sana, Dad.
Grace's bit at the end!
Oscar may have only heard the 'I'm a Gnu' song once, but throughout my childhood (and beyond) I think I may have heard my Dad recite it almost as many times as there were Gnus in the Serengeti! It was written in the 1950s by a comedy song-writing duo called Flanders and Swann and (astonishingly) produced by George Martin who went on to produce The Beatles. For anyone curious to hear it (you have been warned!), here it is: The Gnu Song
:-)
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