Following a couple of nights of post-Danakil recuperation, my plan was to head west to an area of the country known as the 'historical circuit' - an area featuring numerous UNESCO world heritage sites. I was planning to catch a bus, but two of my fellow volcano-climbers offered me a lift in their car, which I happily accepted!
Our final destination was Aksum, but we were all keen to stop off en route in Tigray - an area known for its many and spectacular churches and monasteries.
Tigray
There are over 125 Ethiopian Orthodox churches and monasteries scattered around the Tigray region. Ethiopia was one of the first places to adopt Christianity - in the early 4th century. Built between the 4th and 15th century, some contain ancient and sacred manuscripts, paintings and objects that are still used in services today. What is even more remarkable about the churches than their historical importance, is that they are all carved out of the sandstone cliffs of the region, many at heights and angles that make them appear to be completely inaccessible.
The church is nestled at the top of and behind that big
chunk of mountain to the right of the photo!
The climb started quite gently, but the ascent quickly became a lot steeper and much more challenging. On reaching the halfway point, we had to take off our shoes and socks and climb barefoot in order to more easily find toe-holds and grip the rock-face. Then close to the top, with the church almost in our sights, we faced the biggest challenge - an almost sheer, smooth rock-face. And a rope. Tied to a tree.
After an already challenging climb, the sight of this last obstacle - and the means by which we were apparently going to scale it - was all too much for me. I sat down, defeated and frustrated and announced "there is NO WAY I can do that!"
We sat in silence for a few minutes, as I tried to summon up the energy and courage I needed to continue. Finally, I found just enough of both to get me back on my feet and - with the help of the rope and a local guide's expert pointing - up and over the rock-face.
Quite a view...
Sitting on the narrow walkway that led to the church door
Painting on the ceiling of the church
The priest with ancient manuscript
The climb was one of the most challenging things I have ever done, but seeing the church and views made the whole terrifying ordeal completely worthwhile. It is incredible to think that not only did men climb up the mountain many times in order to carve out the church, but the priest and his faithful congregation still make that same climb every single day...
After an exhausting but exhilarating day, we drove the rest of the way to Aksum for a much-needed sleep!
Aksum was the heart of ancient Ethiopia and the centre of the Aksumite Empire - a hugely powerful, wealthy and influential empire that existed between the 1st and 8th centuries. The ruins of the kingdom still remain, including many ancient monoliths or 'stelae', royal tombs and castles - all built before the 14th century.
In addition, the city is said to have been the home of the legendary Queen of Sheba and is - according to Ethiopian belief - the current home of the original 'Ark of the Covenant'. (The Ark is a hugely significant object for Christians. In the bible, it is described as the chest that contains the tablets of stone on which were written the ten commandments)
What is also fascinating about Aksum is that only 10% of its ancient sites and tombs have been excavated by archaeologists - the other 90% are still unexplored and may be full of treasure...
There are over 120 stelae in Aksum, ranging between 1 and 33 metres
in height. They were each carved out of one solid piece of rock
and transported to the site over 1,700 years ago - nobody knows how
this was done. Underneath each stelae is a tomb.
Tomb
This is the chapel that houses what is believed to be the original 'Ark of the Covenant'. The Ark is guarded by one man - the priest you can see sitting to the left of the building. He is said to be the only person alive who has seen or is allowed to see the Ark - nobody else is allowed into the chapel and he is not allowed to leave. He will remain in the chapel until he dies, after which time another priest will be chosen to replace him.
Many refer to the priest as the 'Holy Prisoner'.
Many refer to the priest as the 'Holy Prisoner'.
The remains of what many Ethiopians believe was
the Queen of Sheba's palace
Gondar was Ethiopia'a capital city for approximately 300 years until the mid 1800s. During that time, successive Emperors built castles in the city, the ruins of which still remain within a walled enclosure.
Debre Birhan Selassie Church. Legend says that this church was saved from destruction by Sudanese attackers in the late 1880s, thanks to a huge swarm of bees chasing them away.
Cherubs painted on the church ceiling
Vultures sit atop the city walls, like sentries.
Simien Mountains
Just North of Gondar lie the beautiful Simien Mountains, with peaks reaching up to 4500m above sea level. It's a popular destination for overnight hiking, but sadly I only had time for a day trip. As well as stunning scenery, the mountains are home to some beautiful creatures, including two only found in Ethiopia; the Ethiopian Wolf (none seen sadly) and the Gelada Baboon (lots seen!)
Our ranger
Klipspringer
Sitting amongst a troop of Gelada Baboons
Lalibela
Lalibela was yet another of Ethiopia's capital cities - this time during the 12th and 13th centuries. Lalibela is often referred to as the 8th wonder of the ancient world, on account of its ancient and beautiful rock-hewn churches. It is also a place of pilgrimage for many Christians.
There are 11 rock churches in Lalibela, constructed in the 12th century by King Lalibela, whose dream was to create a 'New Jerusalem'. Like the churches in Tigray, these too were carved out of rock, but in addition they feature connecting underground tunnels.
Entrance to a pitch-black underground tunnel
linking two of the churches
Having been in Ethiopia for just over a week, I was beginning to understand that nothing about or in this country is ordinary. From the extreme, other-worldly natural landscapes of the Danakil, I had moved on to unique, beautiful man-made creations in the cities of the North. In both places the Ethiopian people have used their strength, determination and faith to make use of or transform the - often challenging - natural environment in truly inspiring ways.
From the North, it was time to head South and find out whether the bottom of the country had as many wonders as the top. But first, a quick stop in Addis...
:)
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